Day 3: Siem Reap

The next two days will be early starts as we explore the temples of Angkor. Temples and structures are spread over 400 square kilometers, built by Khmer rulers from the 9th to 15th century. We'll only be seeing a few select sites while trying to survive in the heat.

Our guide, Chantha Thuy, comes to fetch us from the hotel and we also have a driver for the day. All the offical guides of Angkor wear a uniform of peach shirts and navy pants.

We try to enjoy the sunrise at Srah Srang. A very persistent little postcard seller follows me everywhere I turn. It's hard to see all these child vendors, but we're told if we buy something, more will come and we'll discourage them from attending school.

Srah Srang is a "baray" (reservoir) and was said to be King Jayavarman VII's swimming pool around 1200AD. A temple was built out in the middle of the water for him to swim out to and meditate in.

 

Ta Prohm

The first temple site we visit is Ta Prohm, built in the early 13th century by a king to honour his mother. We arrive just after sunrise so the area has just a few visitors and we can enjoy it in peace. It's one of my favourite temple sites that we'll visit because of numerous sprung trees that grow over, around and through the structures. The trees have almost become part of the buildings and they would collapse if the trees were removed. This is also the site for some of the shots from "Tomb Raider".

Above and below are photos of how this colonade was found (a pile of bricks) and how it was reconstructed and looks now. It's a wonder how they figured out where things should go.

Some temple details: Dinosaurs? Where the Wild Things Are?

 

It's now only about 8am. so we have our packed breakfast in the car. We're lucky to have a driver as the temperature is over 30°C and under a scorching sun with little shelter and lots of walking and climbing. He provides us with cold water from a cooler throughout the day.

 

Pre Rup

The 2nd temple we visit is Pre Rup, a popular site for tourist to climb to view the sunrise. The temple was built in the 10th century and is in a pyramid shape with many towers. We climb up the many steps to take a look from the top. This is the beginning of many trips side-stepping up and down narrow stairways. This is symbolic of most of the temples, it's not easy to climb up to God.

We spot a giant beehive in the doorway of one of the towers. Chantha tells us the bees keep returning to build their hive in the same spot. The surface of the hive creepily undulates with bee activity.

 

Banteay Samre

It's just mid-morning, but the sun is up and scorching. I'm starting to get a little sleepy out in the sun as we have a look through Banteay Samre. The temple is dedicated to Vishnu and the carvings depict stories of Vishnu.

The Lion's bridge leads up to Banteay Samre. The road from the bridge leads straight all the way west to Bayon, which we'll visit tomorrow.

 

Banteay Srey

Banteay Srey is the only temple not built by a king, but by a Brahmin, counsellor to the King in the 10th centure. Therefore, it was built much smaller so as not to compete with the temples of the monarchs. It was built primarily of red sandstone, a good material for the intricate carvings. The carvings are also much deeper than at the other temples, so they have withstood the wear of time.

The doorways get consecutively smaller, forcing the visitor into a humbled posture.

 

We've hit all these sites in the morning and it's only lunch time! We choose an air-conditioned restaurant and I try the Lok Lak Beef, a traditional Cambodian dish with stir-fried beef, fried egg and a peppery mix for dipping.

 

Angkor Wat

Our guide warns us tomorrow will be a Buddhist holy day and the 3rd level of Angkor Wat will be closed. So we go see Angkor Wat before we call it a day, but we'll return early the next morning to see the sunrise. It's the largest Hindu temple in the world later incorporating Buddhist beliefs. In Khmer, "Angkor Wat" means City Temple. It is the main tourist attraction of Cambodia and even appears on their flag.

A view of the outer wall of Angkor Wat. It is surrounded by a 190m wide moat and we enter by crossing a pedestrian causeway.

We climb the stairs to check out the 3rd level and towers. (Stair photo courtesy SF)

All the tourists seeking shade.

These celestrial dancers and female deities are found carved throughout the temple.

View from the 3rd level of Angkor Wat. You can see the outer wall in the distance.

 

Chantha tells us if we stand in one of the alcoves against the wall and beat our chest 3 times, we'll have 3 years of good luck. You can feel a resounding echo as you pound your chest.

A tuk tuk waiting outside Angkor Wat. We never got a chance to ride one.

 

We finally head back to the hotel after a full day of temple touring and what a place to relax! Our room opens out to our own sitting area and the courtyard beyond with the pool waiting for us. SF yells at some pool hooligans.

 

© Amy Lee 2013