Day
3: Siem Reap
The
next two days will be early starts as we explore the temples of
Angkor. Temples and structures are spread over 400 square kilometers,
built by Khmer rulers from the 9th to 15th century. We'll only be
seeing a few select sites while trying to survive in the heat.
Our
guide, Chantha Thuy, comes to fetch us from the hotel and we also
have a driver for the day. All the offical guides of Angkor wear
a uniform of peach shirts and navy pants.
We
try to enjoy the sunrise at Srah Srang. A very persistent little
postcard seller follows me everywhere I turn. It's hard to see all
these child vendors, but we're told if we buy something, more will
come and we'll discourage them from attending school.
Srah
Srang is a "baray" (reservoir) and was said to be King
Jayavarman VII's swimming pool around 1200AD. A temple was built
out in the middle of the water for him to swim out to and meditate
in.
Ta
Prohm
The
first temple site we visit is Ta Prohm, built in the early
13th century by a king to honour his mother. We arrive just after
sunrise so the area has just a few visitors and we can enjoy it
in peace. It's one of my favourite temple sites that we'll visit
because of numerous sprung trees that grow over, around and through
the structures. The trees have almost become part of the buildings
and they would collapse if the trees were removed. This is also
the site for some of the shots from "Tomb Raider".
Above
and below are photos of how this colonade was found (a pile of bricks)
and how it was reconstructed and looks now. It's a wonder how they
figured out where things should go.
Some
temple details: Dinosaurs? Where the Wild Things Are?
It's
now only about 8am. so we have our packed breakfast in the car.
We're lucky to have a driver as the temperature is over 30°C
and under a scorching sun with little shelter and lots of walking
and climbing. He provides us with cold water from a cooler throughout
the day.
Pre
Rup
The
2nd temple we visit is Pre Rup, a popular site for tourist
to climb to view the sunrise. The temple was built in the 10th century
and is in a pyramid shape with many towers. We climb up the many
steps to take a look from the top. This is the beginning of many
trips side-stepping up and down narrow stairways. This is symbolic
of most of the temples, it's not easy to climb up to God.
We
spot a giant beehive in the doorway of one of the towers. Chantha
tells us the bees keep returning to build their hive in the same
spot. The surface of the hive creepily undulates with bee activity.
Banteay
Samre
It's
just mid-morning, but the sun is up and scorching. I'm starting
to get a little sleepy out in the sun as we have a look through
Banteay Samre. The temple is dedicated to Vishnu and the carvings
depict stories of Vishnu.
The
Lion's bridge leads up to Banteay Samre. The road from the bridge
leads straight all the way west to Bayon, which we'll visit tomorrow.
Banteay
Srey
Banteay
Srey is the only temple not built by a king, but by a Brahmin, counsellor
to the King in the 10th centure. Therefore, it was built much smaller
so as not to compete with the temples of the monarchs. It was built
primarily of red sandstone, a good material for the intricate carvings.
The carvings are also much deeper than at the other temples, so
they have withstood the wear of time.
The
doorways get consecutively smaller, forcing the visitor into a humbled
posture.
We've
hit all these sites in the morning and it's only lunch time! We
choose an air-conditioned restaurant and I try the Lok Lak Beef,
a traditional Cambodian dish with stir-fried beef, fried egg and
a peppery mix for dipping.
Angkor
Wat
Our
guide warns us tomorrow will be a Buddhist holy day and the 3rd
level of Angkor Wat will be closed. So we go see Angkor Wat before
we call it a day, but we'll return early the next morning to see
the sunrise. It's the largest Hindu temple in the world later incorporating
Buddhist beliefs. In Khmer, "Angkor Wat" means City Temple.
It is the main tourist attraction of Cambodia and even appears on
their flag.
A view
of the outer wall of Angkor Wat. It is surrounded by a 190m wide
moat and we enter by crossing a pedestrian causeway.
We
climb the stairs to check out the 3rd level and towers. (Stair
photo courtesy SF)
All
the tourists seeking shade.
These
celestrial dancers and female deities are found carved throughout
the temple.
View
from the 3rd level of Angkor Wat. You can see the outer wall in
the distance.
Chantha
tells us if we stand in one of the alcoves against the wall and
beat our chest 3 times, we'll have 3 years of good luck. You can
feel a resounding echo as you pound your chest.
A
tuk tuk waiting outside Angkor Wat. We never got a chance to ride
one.
We
finally head back to the hotel after a full day of temple touring
and what a place to relax! Our room opens out to our own sitting
area and the courtyard beyond with the pool waiting for us. SF yells
at some pool hooligans.
©
Amy Lee 2013
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